Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Summertime: Working and Riding Horses In the Heat

Summer brings wonderful days of enjoyment with longer hours to ride. Time can easily get away from a horse and rider if they are not prepared for the heat and sun's rays on a hot day.  Take time to consider what your horse can handle during your riding sessions as well as yourself.   Your horse can easily be susceptible to heat exhaustion just as you are.
Horses lose body heat through sweat, exhaling warm air, and widening blood vessels in their skin.  When the air temperature is near the body temperature of a horse, heat loss is greatly decreased.
As air temperature rises and humidity increases, horses can lose up to 7 gallons of fluid in sweat as well as electrolytes used for bodily function.  Losing 7 gallons an hour can easily dehydrate a horse, so horses working in hot conditions need to drink plenty of water and given electrolytes. Start giving electrolytes in their water in small increments to get the horse adjusted to the taste, then gradually increase to meet the recommendation for the size of horse.
Many horse owners will train or ride their horse in the morning or early evening hours to avoid the hottest part of the day.  If you do have to work your favorite four legged friend in the heat, look for shade and breezes to help cool down until you are able to rinse the horse off, making sure to scrape off the excess water to shed the extra heat that can build up in the hair.  If your horse has a pink nose or eyes that can easily sunburn, you can apply children's sunscreen to help prevent the sun's rays from burning sensitive skin.   Choose a higher grade SPF for horses with white or pink noses.  Once you prepare your horse in advance and have a plan to cool down if overheating happens to occur, you can thoroughly enjoy riding your horse in the summer!

Friday, May 23, 2014

First Aid for Your Horse

Horses are always known for their beauty and grace, but honestly, grace sometimes does not fall alongside beauty.  Horses are accident prone and you must be ready for anything that can happen.  First and foremost, BE CALM.  If you are in a state of panic, your horse can pick up on your emotions and possibly be as well.
Once you assess the situation, determine whether the horse needs medical attention, or if the injury can be cared for using first aid.  ALWAYS CALL A VETERINARIAN when in doubt.   Here are some things you must keep on hand in a first aid kit for your horse:
1.  Mercury or Digital Thermometer-  A thermometer will let you know if your horse has an elevated temperature-a sign that a health problem needs attention.  Digital thermometers work best, and are easier on the eyes to read.  Just make sure you maintain control of the animal when using the thermometer, as you don't want to lose it in the horse's rectum and create another emergency!  A horse's normal temperature would be in the range of 99 to 101 degrees Farenheit.
2. Antiseptic wound cleaner-  Betadine, Hibitane, or Novalsan scrubs can be used to clean wounds. Do not use Hydrogen peroxide on wounds other than hoof wounds as it will kill healthy tissue.
3. Cutters/ Scissors/Wire cutters-  Useful when a horse becomes entangled in a wire fence.  Wire cutters can also remove loose shoes if necessary.
4. Stable wraps or standing bandages- Keep a set of clean unused bandages for wrapping injured legs. VetWrap is a commonly known brand.
5. Gamgee or other absorbent padding- used under stable wraps as padding for injured legs.  Keep these stocked inside a ziploc bag to maintain their sterility.
6.  Stethoscope-To monitor heart rate.  You can hear the heartbeat most clearly just behind the left elbow. A stethoscope can also be used to listen to gut noises if necessary.  Normal heart rate for a mature horse would be 28-40 beats per minute; weanlings: 60-80 beats per minute; yearlings: 40-60 beats per minute.
7. Zinc oxide cream- for sunburned noses, as well as to protect and heal minor cuts and abrasions.
8. Epsom salts- for drawing out infections.
9. Antiseptic cream or ointment- help heal minor cuts, wounds and abrasions.
10. Flashlight
11. Electrolyte powder or paste for dehydration.  To check for dehydration, pinch a fold of skin on the neck and release it.  If it slowly returns to its normal position and tends to stay in a fold, the horse is dehydrated.
12. Twitch- used to help calm an excited horse when administering first aid.

There are many books on first aid for large animals that can be helpful, as well as a having a small log book for taking notes on your horse's health.  And always have a veterinarian on call if an emergency arises.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

The Hackamore

The true hackamore, or bosal, evolved from vaquero horsemanship traditions.  It is a plaited rawhide noseband that fits around the bridge of a horse's nose, and is attached on each side to a headstall.   A solid knot of braided rawhide at the base is wrapped with mecate reins, traditionally made with horsehair.
It is usually one of the first pieces of headgear a trainer uses to start colts, as well as used in the transition phase between the snaffle and spade bit.
You cannot achieve suppleness, balance and flexibility in the bridle with a snaffle the way you can in a hackamore.   In a snaffle, you pull directly on the horse's mouth, drawing his head to his chest and causing him to yield to the pressure at his withers rather than the poll, which places more weight on his forehand.
The hackamore, on the other hand, applies pressure to the sensitive areas on the horse's nose, cheeks, and chin.  The horse seeks relief by flexing at the poll and moving into the pull, which promotes balance and preserves a young horse's sensitive mouth.
During hackamore training, a horse learns consistency in balance and feel, making this training stage crucial in a horse's foundation.   The type of hackamore depends on the horse's face structure, but 5/8 is a standard diameter to start with.  As for length, a 10 1/2 to 11 inch fits most horses.
When using a hackamore to start a young horse, you must start teaching him to give in to pressure at a standstill.  When you can get your horse to move its face in any direction without resistance, you have achieved lightness in the hackamore.
Horsemen have their own preferences when it comes to hackamore adjustment. Some place it higher on the horse's nose.  The reason for this is that when the reins are picked up and the horse begins to break at the poll, the hackamore will go into proper position. If the noseband is adjusted too high, the hackamore is not effective, thus the horse will never feel the pressure release and will develop resistance.  If the noseband is too low, it will cut off the horse's wind and damage cartilage.
Once the hackamore is adjusted properly, stand beside the horse and apply neck rein pressure.  Starting from the ground makes the horse understand the cue easier, then graduate into the saddle as he becomes more supple.   This technique differs from the old vaqueros starting out rank horses in a hackamore.  They would supple a horse from the back of another.  To a novice, a horse's response to the hackamore could be misleading.  If the horse responds to light pressure, it does not mean it's naturally light.  Some people ride with just their fingertips, thinking they are being light.   Make your horse aware of what's being asked and you want to get a response in achieving a high degree of feel.  You should be able to move the horse's face without any restrictions.  If you are able to do this while in the saddle, you have achieved lightness.
When the time for transition comes to move into a bridle, it mostly depends on the horse.  Each horse is unique, and some learn faster than others.  There is no set time or method in making a hackamore or bridle horse.  Do take into account what is comfortable for your horse at that particular time in its training.  It might take years for a horse to progress into a bridle.  Ultimately, there are no shortcuts when training a horse into a finely tuned team member that responds lightly to your pressure.

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Sanctuary!

Sanctuary.  Its meaning stems back to biblical times.  A sanctuary has various meanings from being a designated holy place to a refuge for humans as well as animals.  For some, this comes as a need to want to offer help, be it monetary, or an offering of physical labor.   Finding a reputable sanctuary or rescue takes a bit of homework to ensure your donation has been used for the care of those animals in need.  Why a horse sanctuary?  According to Montana Horse Sanctuary, they believe in "positive options for both horses and handlers" by providing a safe sanctuary for horses in need, whether displaced from a loving home or turned over to law enforcement because of abuse or neglect.
     Recently, a rescue in Townsend, Montana was raided and over 25 horses were rescued by authorities.  The owners of Rocky Acres Horse Rescue and Sanctuary have been arrested and charged with 35 counts of animal cruelty. Monies that have been donated to this sanctuary were never used to care for these animals.  The sheriff's department of Broadwater County, Montana has requested help from Montana Horse Sanctuary in collecting donations from the public for the care of the seized animals from Rocky Acres Horse Rescue and Sanctuary.
     This is, however, not the norm for rescues.  A rescue itself is a wonderful concept. There are many, many rescues out there doing wonderful work. The good, far outnumber the bad. But, our advice is to look into it before you spend your hard earned money on it. Check with the local businesses and the Better Business Bureau, as well as the local authorities of the rescue/sanctuary you would like to donate.  There are many reputable charities out on the web, and with some researching and a few phone calls, you should be able to find out the reputation of that business.  Word of mouth is the best way, and not just the web.  Trust your instinct, and those that you speak with.  Doing your homework will save you money as well as heartache for the loss of an animal in someone's care who does not care!
  You can help those horses that were seized during the March 12th raid of Rocky Acres Horse Rescue and Sanctuary by contacting Board President Jane Heath at  info@montanahorsesanctuary.org.  
                                               
                                                   Montana Horse Sanctuary
                                              www.montanahorsesanctuary.org

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Horse Sense vs. Nonsense

No horse is a pleasure unless he is safe and is ridden safely.  Most accidents that occur happen with gentle horses.  And nearly all have been the fault of the human, not the horse.  
A few examples:
-A woman visiting a 4-H club pasture walked up, unannounced, behind a horse that was eating.  Lots of horses will kick when they are eating.  She suffered a broken jaw and ended up with eight false teeth.  
-A neighbor walked into a closed trailer, leading his horse right behind.  The horse jumped in      ( a well trained horse) and crushed the man, breaking his nose.
-Two girls racing their horses outside an arena during a horse show ran into another rider, killed the horse, and broke the rider's leg.
-A man walked up behind his young horse and swatted him on the rump without alerting the animal.  This was a professional trainer who knew better, but he had been talking with a friend and forgot.   The end result: a smashed face.

Here are some DO'S and DON'TS that will help you have fun with horses-SAFELY:

DO approach a horse from his left, saddle from his left and mount from his left.  This is a tradition that dates back to the knights who carried big swords on the left side and found it easier to throw their right leg over the saddle. 

DON'T walk up behind a horse unannounced.  Let him know you are approaching by speaking to him and placing your hand on him.  Horses can't see immediately behind them and instinctively kick to protect their blind spot.

DO keep your hands calm and your voice quiet.  Shouting or beating an excited horse will only make matters worse.

DON'T wrap the lead rope or reins around your hand, wrist or body. The gentlest horse will sometimes spook.

DO walk beside your horse when leading him-not in front of him- and grasp the lead rope near the halter or the reins near the bit.

DON'T tie your horse with the bridle reins. Use a strong halter and lead rope to tie him high and close to a post, tree, or similar object.

DO slow to a walk when riding on pavement, bridges, ice or anywhere you are not sure of the footing.

DON'T mount your horse in a barn or near fences.  It's a good way to get your head cracked or your leg cut.  

DO check your girth, cinch straps, curb chain and reins to make sure they are in good condition.

DON'T tease your horse or let him nibble on you.  A nibbling horse occasionally bites.

DO keep your head clear when bridling a horse.  He may throw his head to avoid the bit and hit you.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Body Clipping your Horse or Mule

Naturally a horse or mule will grow a winter coat that sheds out in the spring or early summer, depending on the animal.  Body clipping a horse requires a lot of time maintaining and patience for both the horse or mule as well as the owner.   There are many reasons people body clip, working with your equine during the winter months sometimes makes it harder for it to cool down after the workout.  Once you clip your horse, there are certain responsibilities you must do to help maintain and protect it from the cold.
Blanketing a clipped horse will provide some of the warmth that is lost. But you must check on your horse at least twice a day to see if it needs a lighter weight blanket or sheet in place of the heavier blanket.
Some horse breed societies do not believe in body clipping, and those horse owners may keep a heat lamp near their horse in the winter to fool the hair coat into believing it is still warm.  These can be placed on a timer to turn on and off at designated times during the day or evening.  You will still have to blanket your horse in the winter months, and if you board your horse, you may have a larger electric bill as well.
Deciding when to clip, you must determine how much work you will commit to clipping and caring for your horse afterward.  If you work your horse or mule occasionally, then a clip might not be necessary.  Full body clips for a show horse will help evaporate sweat easier.  A wet coat will not insulate very well, and having a shorter coat will help dry it off quickly.   Make sure you dry it off completely, as blanketing a wet horse will not hold in their body heat.   Depending on your climate, the use of different weights of blankets and sheets are available as well as hoods for colder climates in the winter.
If you do decide to body clip your horse, you will need shearing clippers as well as small clippers.  The small clippers are for the ears, face and small body parts and areas.  Shearing clippers cut down the time it takes to clip the animal overall.  Lubricants are used to keep the blades running smoothly and cool, and keeping a small brush or toothbrush handy will clean out hair and dirt that accumulates in the blade teeth.
Body clipping takes a lot of time, so expect long hours and have lots of patience with your horse or mule.
If your equine is clipper shy, spend extra time in the fall getting it adjusted to the feel of the equipment before using them later.  Make sure the area you are clipping is quiet and free of distractions.  This will help keep your horse or mule calmer and it will be easier for the both of you during the clip session.

Monday, February 3, 2014

Head ‘E’m Off At the Pass

     Let’s just face the facts. Everyone who comes to a public trail ride is an experienced, expert horseman. Otherwise, why would they come there to ride, am I right?
     It was a fine hot summer day in the Ozarks Mountains. Snuggled within the mountains, down in lake country is a little town called Branson, maybe you’re heard of it? Anyway, I digress. I was guiding trail rides for the tourists there in a small nose to tail walking ride. We were lounging in the shade when a trio showed up to ride. This fella had brought his daughter and niece out to ride. The girls had to be about 10 to 12 years old, just the right age to be absolutely in love with all things horse. I greeted them and they quickly decided on the ride they wanted to go on, as we had a couple to choose from. The one they chose was for a more advanced rider; it was a free style ride with less direct control. In other words, they were free to ride out and away, and I was along for the ride to make sure they didn’t get lost. I asked the fella if the girls could ride. “Oh ya, they can ride!” he assured me. “Sir,” I said. “I’m not asking if they can sit on the horse, I’m asking if they can ride.” He looked at me, blinked a bit and again said “Sure they can ride.” I had a bad feeling about it, but the boss assured me they would be fine.
     Soon, enough we were on the road and headed down the trail. The uncle and I were soon swapping lies and having a fine time, and the girls were having a grand time. I was riding Duck, the girls were on Alpo and Kal Kan, and the uncle was on Turtle. We were mostly walking and trotting a bit through the quiet, cool woods. It wasn’t long before we hit a large field. We called it the Polo field because of its size. It was a nice level field, perfect for a nice canter. No hills, no holes, just a nice grassy field. I had only intended to jog through it, when the girls started begging.
     “Moose, can we PLEASE canter the horses? PLEASE oh PLEASE can we canter the horses?” I looked to the uncle and again asked “Are you sure these girls are experienced enough for this?” Well, after much discussion I relented and let the girls head off into the field. I was on point and watching them as they started out at a jog. It wasn’t long before they had hit a canter and started to giggle. Quickly they got noisier, shrieking as they went. The girls had been doing this off and on the whole trip so I didn’t pay that much mind at first. It wasn’t until they hit the corner and turned that I could see that the niece had thrown the reins away and had a death grip on the saddle horn. She was squalling like a banshee with her …….toe caught in a crack.
     Poor ol’ Alpo, he wasn’t sure WHAT was going on, but he was pretty sure he didn’t wanna hang around to find out. He lit out of there like his head was on fire and his tail was catching. Alpo hit the corner and gained a gear. This may seem like it took a lot of time; but in fact, it all took place in about eight to ten seconds. It took me about three to size up the situation and I yelled to the uncle “Hold this!” and tossed him my flea catcher. I didn’t have time to see if he caught the hat or not, I was off and gone. I drew a bid on Alpo’s halter and poled ol’ Duck in the ribs and said “SCOOT!” We were off like a dirty shirt. It seemed like it took forever but we soon had Alpo headed off at the pass, old west style. I caught him by the bridle and slowed him to a stop. Meanwhile, the little girl’s eyes were wide as a dinner platter and she was white as a sheet. Still blubbering a bit, she somehow managed to pry her little fingers from the saddle horn and dismount. Her uncle looked her over and pronounced her in fine shape, just a bit shook up. We got her saddled up again, and I snubbed her to my saddle horn to pony her for the rest of the trip. She learned a valuable lesson that day, one I teach all my students: Never panic. I don’t care if the whole world is falling apart around you and you have one cheek in the saddle and one in midair, panicking will only make things worse. If you can keep a clear head, you are more likely to come out with all your various and sundry parts intact.

Brooks Gaited Horse Training

Sunday, February 2, 2014

Horse Related Superstitions and Wives Tales

     I'm sure you all have heard about hanging a horse shoe over a door with the ends up to keep the luck from running out.  We all have a few sayings that have been carried down from generation to generation, and some have us wondering.  For instance, if a person were to buy a horse in Europe the saying goes something like this:  "One white foot, buy a horse; two white feet, try a horse; Three white feet, look well about him; four white feet, do without him."   Here in the USA, cowboys have said that a red mare will either be crazy or mean.
    The whorl or swirl on the forehead of a horse would indicate its personality.  Many people believe a horse with two whorls on its forehead will be more difficult.  Swirlology is the study of hair swirls or whorls in horses.  For some believers, this would affect the purchase or selling of horses.
      Some folks believe that changing a horse's name is bad luck, and I've also heard that the deeper a stud dips his nostrils into the water he is drinking, the better the sire he will be. Here in the Ozarks, the old timers would often castrate their own stock. When doing so, they would  just "throw" them and cut them right there in the pasture. I was told growing up that when you cut a horse, throw one testicle to the east, and one to the west and don't look where they fall, or he will be proud cut.
     Supposedly you can predict the sex of an unborn foal by tying a horseshoe nail to a tail hair of the pregnant mare. Hold the nail above the mare's hips. If it does not swing, the mare is not pregnant, if it swings in a circle, she's carrying a filly, if in a straight line, a colt.
     One of the best known superstitions is that it is bad luck to place a cowboy hat on a bed.  There has been a story told about a cowboy who showed up at the National Finals Rodeo with a smashed hat, because the night before his mother laid it on a bed.  According to the superstition, the only way to get rid of the bad luck is to throw the hat outside and stomp all the bad luck out of it.   .
     Another favorite of mine is one the old folks used to tell us kids back in the day. When we would see a horse rolling over in the pasture, they would say that he's only worth as much as how many times he can roll over in a row. Another variation on this was the saying that only a good horse could roll all the way over. If he couldn't roll all the way over, he was no good.
     There are a myriad of superstitions worldwide, each with their own variation.  It is fascinating to read and hear these wives tales carried down for so many years.  And some do actually have a foothold on the populace as fact.  Do you have a horse related superstition? If so, share it here!

Brooks Gaited Horse Training

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

A Beloved Past time is slowly disappearing


     For centuries, horses have been a huge part of our lives.  They have been wonderful companions and hard working members of society in various venues.  With the implementation of technology and societal advancement, the way of the horse is slowly disappearing.  Unless one is determined to work and make a living with them, horses have taken a backseat to progressive technology. 
     In many cities horse and buggy rides as well as the more glamorous carriages have been a staple of tourism.  People have traveled from distant lands just to experience one of the most iconic settings in America.  Many who arrive here have inquired about the famous carriage rides in New York City.  
     Recent news has brought the business of horse drawn carriages to light, claiming animal cruelty is a major issue.  Other resources have shown that the current New York City mayor is determined to ban all horse drawn carriages from the city stating, “We are going to get rid of horse carriages, period. We are going to quickly and aggressively move to make horse carriages no longer a part of the landscape. . . They are not humane. They are not appropriate for the year 2014. So, just watch us do it.”   
     Mayor de Blasio as well as a handful of others who want to outlaw the industry say it's cruelty to animals.   The business owners defend their trade with claims there are very few industries with strict regulations as theirs.  The mayor wishes to replace the horses with antique-like electric cars.  We can say that if the mayor is going to put an iconic New York industry out of business on the grounds that its practices are inhumane, those who will lose their livelihoods as a result at least have the right to demand he first prove it.   What are your thoughts?

Brooks Gaited Horse Training
     

Monday, January 27, 2014

The Stubborn Mule Myth

We've all heard it said "You are as stubborn as a mule!". But the truth is, a mule is no more stubborn than a horse or any other creature.  It is simply more cautious and full of thought. I've often said, the trouble with a mule is, they are SO smart, that if you aren't careful, they will spend more time trying to out-think you than just do what you ask. You see, mules take after the inquisitive side of their sire, the donkey.  They are often hard to convince into doing something they perceive as unsafe thus making unfamiliar riders and handlers have a rather large equine that is persistent on their hands.  One way to put it, mules make up their own minds and will not take your word for anything.   More often than not, they decide for themselves.
   But, one can get through to them with patience, persistence and being firm when training.  When the mule is focusing on you, it is less likely to react to obstacles that often spook any equine on the trail.  To keep the mule busy, direct where its feet go instead of letting it wander around aimlessly.  You can teach mules to sidepass or even back up a few steps to regain its attention, and this will reduce the chance of it panicking with something new or scary.   Practice this before you go out on the trail, and in time the mule will understand that not everything is 'going to eat him'.   Each time you ride your mule, it is in training.  Training happens each time you interact with an animal. Being consistent and firm is part working with mules.
     Horses and mules both respond to pressure-release training techniques. Once you have established where the responsiveness in a finished horse or mule lies, you will be amazed in just how receptive a mule can be with years of training.  There is no quick way to get this achieved, and instant gratification does not exist.   Mules respond to pressure by pushing, and handlers often tend to pull against that pressure. But pressure itself does nothing for you.  The release of that pressure is what teaches the mule.
     Trail riding is full of teaching opportunities.  However, many people do not work with mules at home to teach them all the possibilities of disaster while on the trail, and positive reinforcement is wasted on the mule.  Preparing for obstacles while at home can be easy, such as crossing streams and puddles.  At first the mule will do everything it can to avoid it by sidestepping or even jumping across.  Be prepared for this, using your reins and legs to guide it through the stream or puddle.  Once it makes even the slightest attempt at this, reward it by releasing that pressure.  A mule needs to know it will be rewarded for trying.
     Unfortunately people are more likely to jab or spur their mule forward instead of releasing the pressure.  This teaches the mule that puddles and streams are scary and is less productive in training.  Mules can make up their own minds about things and people need to understand that they need reinforcement when dealing with fear.
     Approaching bridges can be a chore, but working with the mule in the same way as crossing a stream or a puddle it can be done.  Guide the mule to the bridge, and let it stop and reward for the smallest try.  Remember, patience and persistence are key in training mules.
     When teaching a mule to walk around boulders or large rocks, guide it gently going both directions. Getting them used to going back through the obstacle helps mules understand they can get through tight spots.  Going one way is not enough.  A mule needs to learn lessons on both sides of its body.  Sometimes on trail one may need to mount or even dismount on the right side.  Training a mule to be two sided is key in trail riding.
     Most mules would rather jump over an obstacle while on trail.  Teaching them to walk across objects such as fallen logs and rocks is important in both the animal's safety as well as the rider.   Start with landscaping timbers on the ground, asking the mule to walk across, then gradually raise the height accordingly to get the mule adjusted to walking over things on the trail.
     There are two kinds of lessons that last: those that scare the heck out of you, and those we learn out of repetition.  Lessons learned over time are the safest, and creating situations at home in training are easy to do.   Practice and prepare in a safe environment, and remember that the more precise and consistent you are when teaching your mule, the easier it is for your mule to learn.

Brooks Gaited Horse Training